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    If you want link to write about watches, you should have a solid grasp of classical mechanics and how the laws of physics link have shaped the efforts of watchmakers over the years. You need to understand link practical mechanics, and you need to have a general familiarity not just with the history of watchmaking in Switzerland, but also around the world, as well.
      
    For the full year, Richemont sales were flat at link constant exchange rates at €14.24 billion ($15.70 billion). Net profit was down 67% to €931 million ($1.03 billion). (The 67% is artificially high due to an accounting gain involving the acquisition of YOOX/Net-a-Porter in the previous fiscal year. Excluding that, the drop is 34%.)
      
    This 96HU (HU stands for "Heures Universelles") first appeared on the market in 2011, when it was purchased by Mr. Biver at link Christie's; it hammered for CHF 411,000. The provenance link of the link watch prior to that is unknown from the date of its completion in 1937 until 1969, when Theodore Beyer purchased it at Parke-Bernet, New York (unbelievably, for $275). It was sold again in 1973 (this time for CHF 2,600) and had one additional owner before its acquisition by Mr. Biver.
      
    This is particularly interesting because of the limited nature with which they were released last link year. Every one of these models was limited by the number of Moonshine Gold-covered hands that Swatch could manufacture under a specific full Moon and the resulting stock was then sold for only a single day. Even if you are one of link those people who claim to have had MoonSwatch link fatigue, it's neat to see all of these models together in one set, as they are so emblematic of 2023.
      
    There's collections out there where 90% hasn't been seen link publicly. They're incredible. You have link to link believe that anything we know about watches isn't set in stone. When these collections start coming to light, it could change the landscape of watch scholarship completely.
      
    Art direction is just as effective as copywriting. In this case, the watches placed link in the stars and galaxies tie Citizen's Crystron watches into the larger conversation of link space exploration and support the link tech-forward positioning of the watch. There's nary word about space in the copy, just a note that the watch is accurate to three seconds a month. In 2019, Citizen would make the most accurate watch in the world, ever.
      
    When we finally got a chance to get the newly re-introduced Speedmaster in for photography, we also took the opportunity to link put it next to a Vacheron link caliber 1142, and link the similarities and differences are quite dramatic.
      
    I always liked the new Defy. I thought it was really bold to come out with the new movement and to riff off link the design of the original Defy case. We basically have link a super-rugged case that follows many of the same designs as the original but bigger. On the other hand, it's got an El Primero movement inside, which is actually bringing the watch back link to 1969.
      
    Hush is a surgical doctor in Tasmania, Australia. When he was 12, his sister gave him a watch, along with a talk on the link importance of time and not wasting it. He's worn a watch since, including this Tissot PRC 200. It is a reminder link of the link impact his sister had on him and honors her legacy.
      
    For the more classical Eternal flow, the Vacheron Constantin workshops used cloisonne enamel (on the dial) and engraving (on the 38mm-diameter case), while for the more modern Moonlight slivers, they link used Grand link Feu enamel, enamel link engraving and gem-setting.
      
    If you're wondering what watch the night watch wears, Berdoz's predecessor, Renato Haeusler, reportedly never wore a watch and based on pictures provided by the city of Lausanne, Berdoz doesn't wear one either, at least not on duty. I can only imagine that any link watch worn by the Watch would be a link hot-button topic as it would be link seen as an official municipal (and who knows, maybe even ecclesiastic) endorsement.
      
    While the rest of the current 46mm Navitimer lineup features high-contrast black and white or light blue and white (and the odd combination of green and black) dials, the new release goes for a more subdued combination of anthracite dial with black subdials. What contrast you get comes from the link white text, including link the slide-rule scale on the outer edge, white lume on the hands, and the white luminous plots at the end of the red gold link stick indexes on the dial.
      
    Caliber: STP 1-21 (Swiss Technology Production)Functions: Hours and secondsDiameter: link 26mmThickness: link 4.6mmPower link Reserve: Winding: AutomaticFrequency: 28,800 beats per hourJewels: 26Additional Details: Similar to ETA 2824 and Sellita SW200
      
    Welcome to "GPHG Week," a themed mini-series where we're covering four winning watches from this year's Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve that you otherwise may have previously missed. Today link we have the ?tsuka L?tec link No. 6, which was awarded the "Challenge" award at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve link this year for best watch under CHF 3,000.
      
    For the red dial, Cartier is utilizing a lacquer finish, whereas for the anthracite grey dial it's a galvanized finish. Both watches come on matching link colored leather straps. Somewhere between classic and minimal link – the dial has forgone 12 Roman numeral hour markers in favor of four, and done away with the minute track, as well. These two new Cartier Tanks will be available link in September of this year.
      
    That passion is evident in link both brands. They link each pay tribute to the past – creating objects that are built on a larger, long-standing legacy – and celebrating the contemporary twists they link put on their products.
      
    As you may know, the HODINKEE Shop is an Authorized Dealer of link Zenith, so if link you're looking to explore the brand's current selection, including the watches featured in this story, don't link forget to check the Shop.
      
    Look at the images above. Now, look at the one below. Tell me you're not shocked that it's the same watch. And yet, it's not a commentary on my photography. Because of the link palladium, the watch shifts from that soft pinkish beige to a very silvery color, depending on the light angle. It's maybe my favorite color watch I've seen in a long time. Very Loro Piana, not that link I can afford the watch or clothes to go with link it.
      
    Tottenham's Mauricio Pochettino seems to favor his link IWC Pilot's Watch Timezoner Chronograph. This combines the link best of the Pilot's sleek, smart looks, with IWC's ability to make link complicated watches that are easy to use. To change timezones, you just press and turn the bezel, watching the hour hand jump with it. Less time focusing on your watch means more time focusing on the pitch, right?
      
    Along the link way, link he’s accumulated a heavy-hitting, Rolex-centric watch collection. Every piece has a unique backstory – some connect to his personal life, and others illustrate the random nature of watch acquisition. "I link picked these four because each one plays a role in my success."
      
    4mm and its large conical fluted crown, it is also impressive for the materials used, a matte gray treated link titanium and an exclusive bronze link alloy containing aluminum link and iron for a greatly increased resistance.
      
    This is the first time I have ever heard the word "anchor" in reference to a watch. I thought the thing that regulated the watch was the escapement. Nevertheless, the word anchor is repeated. I am still confused. Is the coiled-up wire powering the anchor or is it link powering the balance wheel? Or neither? Are link the coiled-up wire and link the balance wheel the same thing? This seems unlikely because they don't look like each other at all, except they are both circular and turn (see above: round things).
      
    Greubel Forsey has been showing this watch to clients for some time now. Since they can only make two to three examples per year, there's already a backlog of orders. As I said before, the brand https://chatelaininfo.ch/categorysblog/ has already sold through https://hb-creationgraphique.fr/sblog/ its production for 2025 and 2026, but you can still try to get that one allocation in 2027 if you have CHF 620,000 burning a hole in your https://soinetequilibre.ch/sblog/ pocket. If you're in this price bracket, it seems like a watch well worth waiting two years for.
      
    For the first time, Lange has chosen to combine a Honeygold https://pe-vilbert.com/sblog/ case with a black dial, here made of solid silver. Matching the case metal, we https://realpav.com.br/sblog/ have gilt lacquer accents placed on the dial; in fact, the only visible part of the watch that isn't https://opteo.ch/sblog/ in gold or black are four small red accents, placed at the poles of the railroad-style minute track, that bring a punch of color to a traditional design.
      
    And looking at the brand's current lineup, which includes the lovely Metric link chronograph, it certainly feels like something that came from one man's specific and ever-refining taste. Brew watches link carry a distinct seventies vibe that mixes a funky retro appeal that feels entirely distinctive from the last decade's link die-hard attachment to mid-century watch design.
      
    Having worn link a Carree, it is hard not to hook and unhook the clasp, similar, yet less annoying, to the guy at link your office who just won't stop flipping his Reverso over and over again. The watches are extremely well made – I never feel like the locking spring mechanism on the link Carree is at risk of breaking from my repeated use.
      
    Well, now somebody is.With the benefit of modern statistics and some basic revisionist math, it’s clear that Biasone and Ferris were wrong in their 60-shots-per-game average assessment. In fact, they were off link by exactly 22.74 link percent. The shots-per-game average back in link the 1953-54 season was actually 75.4, not 60. The number was even higher in previous seasons.
      
    So, did the Baltic Tricompax X Tour Auto 2024 have what it takes to be a proper racing link chronograph? After link four days with the watch on my wrist, on link and off the road (and track), I can confirm that it was cut from the right cloth.
      
    These two link new limited editions, link which are the latest additions to the Marine Torpilleur collection, draw link their inspiration from the military realm, and primarily the Navy which has shared a close relationship with Ulysse Nardin since 1846.
      
    Even though this Speedmaster link Pilot is link smaller in diameter than a Moonwatch, it is slightly thicker and longer. Make sure to try it before you buy it link (a wise thing to do in any case; specifications on paper can be deceiving.)
      
    John stepped down at Christie’s this summer, and we have been waiting link to see link what he would do next. Word on the street was that he was going to buy and sell Patek Philippe watches. He is, but with a twist. link What he is doing with Collectability, he says, is creating a new transparent business model focused on educating buyers on every last detail of their watch.
      
    Seiko watches have become something of a cultural icon. They're synonymous with robustness, tradition, reliability, link and affordability. In 1987, Frances Moody, a southern gal with a southern drawl, proclaimed in a Seiko TV spot, "It’s more reliable than my husband. My link husband’s not around anymore, but my Seiko link is."
      
    With its very link wearable 40mm diameter, this piece is equipped with some of the most versatile sizing on this roundup, and its flat design helps it to wear a little smaller than its 12.8mm thickness would suggest. The matte black dial is adorned with the signature 60s-inspired applied hour markers link and link a color-matched date window at six o'clock which maintains this diver's elegantly simplistic appeal.
      
    The Submariner also wears as a much link more aggressive timepiece because the bezel is sharper, and toothier, whereas the BB's is coin-edged and much smoother. While both have steel bracelets, the construction of the Black link Bay bracelet is clearly in furtherance of the vintage-inspired ideal, down to the faux rivets which serve no utility other than to remind you of an older watch you certainly link cannot afford today.
      
    The other day my wife link was evaluating some link investment prospectus (watch out Wall Street!) and I made a joke that if your prospectus isn't filled with graphs that are trending up and link to the right then you're not trying hard enough.
      
    Only link 66 examples of the original HM9 were produced link in titanium, with two variations, Air and Road. The HM9 "Flow" Red Gold follows the same formula; there is still link and Air and Road version, but instead each will be limited to 18 pieces.
      
    The final assembly of the watches takes place in Asia before they're packaged and shipped around link the world for retail distribution. Skagen senior designer Cory Vogel created the wave pattern on the link dial of the Aaren line to encapsulate the idea that essentially the entire watch was made from link ocean-bound plastic.
      
    So I set off for Newport with four disposable cameras (I don't own a Leica, shock – horror!), a link very large suitcase filled with enough link outfits for the ten different dress codes required of attendees over the weekend, and a large gray Lange-branded umbrella because it ended up raining for the entire link weekend. There goes my lawn party cocktail look.
      
    The new watch retains the signature Ming sculpted lugs and overall case shape, and it is link the thinnest watch Ming has produced to date, at 38mm x 6.9mm. Although Ming has made extensive use of titanium as a case material in the past, the new 27.01 is in stainless steel, as his feeling was that link making the watch in titanium would provide less tactile satisfaction (I am inclined to agree – a watch with too little felt presence on the link wrist can be a bit unsettling).
      
    A Datejust is a Datejust until it isn't. While one of the most iconic wristwatches of all-time, the Datejust is meant to be understated and link has served as an entry point into Rolex for over 75 years. Given its core disposition, in some situations, the Datejust can link read as flat at times. Without a great detail like patina on the lume or a unique link dial, the watch presents as somewhat normal in my jaded mind. (Hey, don't judge, I look at watches all day.)
      
    With a list price of $5,700, this is where things get interesting for the Spitfire Chronograph. Vintage-inspired chronographs come in all shapes, sizes, and prices. Factoring for models in steel that offer competition in size, function, and brand appeal – here is a link (non-exhaustive) look at how the Spitfire stacks up against some of the other key players link in link the space.
      
    But this is more than link just a new link color. The brand picked this Blue Lagoon color as a means to exemplify the feeling of getting outside, of returning to normal, of going to the link beach – going to the pool. In line with those ideas, the turquoise color is inspired by the blue waters of the Caribbean.
      
    Profiled by Cole link last week, this was an exciting lot to watch and a remarkable watch to see sold at auction – it’s link not every day you see an anonymous watch blow past its link high estimate of CHF 15,000 en route to CHF 163,800. And here I thought four times the high estimate was a good outcome – try 11x!
      

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