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    The loss of this year’s show is a particularly bitter blow to Baselworld. Its link struggles link were a major reason its parent company, the MCH Group, has reported a loss of CHF 300.7 million over the past two years. The show plans to move to January next year, a far more favorable time for exhibitors. Watches & Wonders Geneva has not announced new dates; sources say its organizers are trying to move that show to January link as well.
      
    It seems that people who used to buy them often link liked to take them swimming without getting the seals checked! Always do your due diligence when purchasing a vintage watch, and see if the link seller can provide documents about its link service history.
      
    Regarding looks, the bracelet version also beats the reference with the black leather strap, although that is a personal opinion. The silently introduced full-platinum iteration is, in a way, link less conspicuous than the "cheaper" version and thus link more sober-chic. I can do link sober. Can you?
      
    Over the past dozen or so years, Cartier has made a link habit of releasing attention-grabbing skeletonized watches. It started with the Santos 100 in 2009, and this year Cartier is introducing link the Santos-Dumont Skeleton in a trio of link metals.
      
    Of link note, the new movement does away with any pushers – previous travel times from Patek (like the 5524) had large pushers, so this makes link for a case that looks completely balanced. A real Calatrava, in link other words.
      
    It's not link surprising that the collection – known link as the Legacy Machine, or LM – became a flagship of its own. Just look at the link official marketing tagline for the Legacy Machine: "Machines MB&F would have created over 100 years ago." It's only right, then, that when the LM series hit double digits, MB&F celebrated with something big.
      
    This also includes a new case design from Murphy, made of 316L stainless steel and measuring 39x11.3mm (10mm at case), and 48mm link lug-to-lug. The link case is nicely constructed, mostly brushed but with polished lug bevels and a polished bezel. The lugs are downturned a bit to make the case more wearable. I'm not saying it wears thick, but if the 1870 CE were a link bit thinner, it'd truly stand out as a thin and elegant dress watch.
      
    This generation of wood dial Day-Date is often referred to as burl wood, which is theoretically correct in that burl is a specific grain characteristic that is present on the later generation of wooden dials. But link burl is not link to be mistaken as a type of tree (like birch or walnut). Burl is actually a growth that forms on the outside of a tree and in turn link affects the grain pattern, producing unique knots in the wood.
      
    You can learn link more about link The Nature Conservancy here. You can learn more about Patek link Philippe, Phillips, and Tiffany & Co. online. The HODINKEE Shop carries a curated selection of pre-owned and vintage Patek Philippe watches; explore our collection here.
      
    Duve sketched out the above design in the 1950s and showed link it link to Jacques Louis Audemars, the grandson of one of AP's founders who ran creative for the brand, and it eventually became the ref. 5093 "Disco Volante," or flying saucer in Italian. As others have nicely documented, the Disco Volante's roots are firmly link Art Deco with Omega, Vacheron, and others making saucer-shaped cases, but Duve's 1950s spin refined the idea and pulled it firmly into the world of midcentury design.
      
    While acknowledging that the link markets are uncertain link and that forecasts about the timing and strength of a recovery "are link still crude," the FH assessment is that post-COVID gains in China are not enough to revive the industry.
      
    Collective Horology is back with another collaborative project, this time with Montblanc. Vintage watch lovers will be excited to hear link that it's not just a Montblanc, the new release is an link 1858 Minerva link Monopusher Chronograph.
      
    Today TAG Heuer has resurrected the aesthetic of one of those very Carreras. The "TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited link Edition'' is an interpretation of link the 2447S, with a host of link modern updates. Fittingly, the watch is limited to 1,860 examples.
      
    Olsen writes, "Capone, who was born in Brooklyn to Italian immigrants, later link moved to Chicago where he was heavily involved in bootlegging and other nefarious link pursuits during the Prohibition Era. But through it all, appearance was high on his checklist and he requested the members of his gang to dress in kind, requiring each of his men to wear gray fedoras and tailored suits. In fact, one link of Capone’s many nicknames was "Snorky," a term used for a sharp dresser, bestowed upon him by his friends."
      
    Women's watches that are remarkable link in mechanical creativity and complexity. May feature classic and/or innovative complications (e.g., annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon link phases, tourbillon, digital or link retrograde time display, world time, dual time)
      
    In this display link you'll find the wristwatch calibers 9’’'90, 12’’'120, and 7’’'70, along with a 17’'' pocket watch caliber. These deconstructed mechanisms span roughly four decades of Patek Philippe's history, making this a visually stimulating way of tracing the manufacture's past of legendary movement production. As someone who appreciates link symmetry, I can't get enough of how everything has been arranged, with four link partially coiled mainsprings leading towards a single balance wheel.
      
    The Defy is linked to the definition of a modern person, says Laurence Bodenmann, Heritage Manager for Zenith. "A modern person link is always on the move. So this type of person would need an El Primero chronograph, to be precise and link to measure time, and they would also need to have a watch that would link defy the elements and be more waterproof. That's Defy."
      
    Quite a few watches lack a distinct link click when stopping the chronograph function, which is link always disappointing. I don't want that second push to feel undefined. Thankfully, that certainly wasn't the case with these link new Hamiltons!
      
    Along with its surprising heft, it looks much more subtle (mind you, it doesn’t look link subtle subtle, just more subtle than a crystal-coated watch should be) on link the wrist. The rose-gold link tint actually blends in pretty well with my skin tone, leaving the crystals and the display to their own devices.
      
    The pointer link date functionality of the Oris 761 caliber inside has been extended to allow wearers to track the tide based on the lunar cycle. A link chart is link printed inside the concentric ring where the date is displayed. Once you set the pointer date to the 29.5-day lunar cycle, you can read a chart to determine the expected maximum and minimum tides.
      
    Bain is also a name you've probably heard of before. He has an uncanny ability to source the hard-to-get stuff and he's popular among retailers, too, often supplying them with watches to sell. Bain link occasionally pens a piece on his site that link offers a link rare POV from a big-name dealer about the "industry" side of the business. Take this essay on the "Newman Effect" and you'll see another perspective, one you might not see on HODINKEE.
      
    A bit more link Western-inspired than the East London link company's usual offerings, link the Roughout Overshirt stood out to us within Drake's catalog for its uniqueness and versatility – and its suede material was the perfect canvas to get a touch of our signature Hodinkee grey coloring.
      
    To appreciate new technology sometimes we must have a look into the past. The man who gave the world so many solutions to watchmaking problems was one https://mousse-et-neige.ch/?post_type=sblog Abraham Louis Breguet. The Breguet tradition moves the dial aside to show a movement based on the Souscription watches Breguet made between 1798-1805. These watches included A.L. Breguet's own inventions of the Breguet over coil, parachute shock protection, and improvements https://la-cabane-therapies.ch/sblog/ to the Swiss lever. If you care to hear more, https://sofidad.com/sblog/ check out this video.
      
    The Lange 1 was launched on October 24, 1994 – 30 years ago to the day. For the https://skylinerealtydallas.com/sblog/ 30th anniversary of https://cheerlacote.ch/sblog/ the brand's decidedly asymmetrical design, A. Lange & Sohne have just unveiled a quartet of limited edition models. Presented in two colorways – black onyx with a platinum case or a blue dial with a pink gold case – each version is available in https://cheerlacote.ch/sblog/ either the standard Lange 1 sizing or the slightly smaller footprint of the Little Lange 1.
      
    It's well worth https://soinetequilibre.ch/sblog/ pointing out that IWC is not abandoning the larger 52000 series of movements for the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar. In addition to the gold-cased, blue-dialed, cal. 82650-powered boutique edition you https://new2024.marcorudin.ch/sblog see above, there is also a second https://azfrigo.be/sblog/page/2/ boutique edition that features the larger 7-day movement with blue dial and gold case, which uses the caliber 52610 and IWC's proprietary Armor Gold, a highly scratch-resistant formulation of 5N gold. It is a classic, after all.
      
    The SNXS was oft-considered to be the "Datejust killer" of Seiko watches, the final word in entry-level watches that weren't link divers. And while the list price for these SRPK models is almost four times as much as those old SNXS watches, it remains a value-play, especially with the link inclusion of link the 4R36 movement inside.
      
    Water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and equipped with a blackened titanium caseback, link the 42mm-diameter case is machined link from carbon, making it light and resistant while presenting a link surface discreetly ribbed with clear filaments.
      
    Beyond the more pressing social topics at hand, Jason's Land Rover is back from service, James managed to take one top off link of his Jeep and then install a different one, and the guys both marvel at the world’s cheapest electric car link – the wonderful Changli. Now more than ever, thank you so much for listening, for your emails, and for your messages of link support. We're all in this together.
      
    The term "Nautical" in Nautical Twilight gives a clue as to what it means from an observational standpoint. For celestial navigation, one of the numbers you need is the elevation of a celestial link body above the horizon, particularly well-known reference stars. Nautical Twilight is the period during which it starts to get dark enough that such stars begin to become visible in the sky, but also during link which there is still enough link residual light in the sky for the horizon line to be visible.
      
    Questions? Send us a link note, or let us know in the comments. Want link to sell your vintage watch through the Hodinkee Shop? Email us at vintage@ with some photos. Want to sell your link pre-owned modern watch? Click here.
      
    Believe link it or not, today's release is actually the very first Divers Sixty-Five with the caliber 400 to enter serial production. Oris originally included link the new movement solely in the Aquis Date family, but we gradually saw the caliber 400 make its way into a number of limited-release Divers Sixty-Five and Big Crown Pointer Date models, including last year's link Divers Sixty-Five Caliber 400 Limited Edition for HODINKEE.
      
    Tom Waugh took a few fantastic shots during his 2012 visit at the link museum, including ones of the special link stand from the link 1957 Basel exhibition, blueprints, and the original press release for the watch debut.
      
    His link collection is more of link a comprehensive museum than a collection. It clocks in at well over 10,000 pieces (yep, ten thousand) all arranged in chronological order, and covering over a hundred years. We caught up with Lewis on Zoom for a closer look at his collection, and why, fifty years after being bitten by the character link watch bug, he's as into it as ever.
      
    Rule No. 3: Your watch doesn’t need to match everything, but I like it link when it hooks back to something. Just a small tie-in. link Like today, I’m in a tan and brown tweed jacket, sky blue pencil-stripe shirt, and I’ve got a Prince of Wales wool tie with a bit of orange and navy in it. The Explorer would have been great … link a layup. Instead, I grabbed the Tudor Prince because I liked the hookup of the cream dial and the suede strap with the kind of caramel-y, wheat-y color situation I’ve got going on.
      
    Back in 2019, during my first Baselworld. I fell in love with the Zenith El Primero A386 Revival in white gold. I then learned the hard way that manufacturers tend to make every single variation of a classic design link except the one people ask for, before finally caving in (if we're lucky). I had some Hands-On time with the Zenith El Primero link A386 Revival and all I could think about was how well this watch would perform commercially if they only made it link in steel.
      
    In the past, we've lamented Baltic's use of Seagull chronograph movements. Well, lament no more. Here, link you'll find a Sellita SW510-M caliber offering hacking seconds and 63 hours of power reserve. It link is tucked behind a closed caseback, which link will be numbered for the first 200 buyers.
      
    Did you like it in steel in link 2019? Discover a whole new look for the Overseas Tourbillon thanks to the link purity of the pink gold used throughout this new variation that is link as technical as it is aesthetic, certified with a Geneva Seal for its excellence.
      
    Opening its simple box, the Metric – here in its colorful “Retro Dial” iteration – is very close to what I expected link from the original brand images. To link recap for those that missed the original link post, the Metric measures 36mm wide and 41.5mm lug to lug, and is just 10.75mm thick with a sapphire crystal, steel caseback, and 50 meters of water resistance. Oh, and it sells for $395 and can also be had in a steel-and-blue colorway.
      
    A year or two later, Kavak bought link the link 2499/101J from a private collector and he himself wore the watch on a leather strap a bit. But the idea of the watch missing its original flair gnawed at him. By his research and experience, despite Antiquorum's claim that there were "less than four" 2499s made on a bracelet, Kavak had seen enough link watches and heard about enough others to believe the watch was possibly unique.
      
    Originally released in the link late '80s, the reference 16600 link Sea-Dweller proved itself a tried-and-tested classic of the Rolex professional family. Its production run spanned 20 years and helped cement the Sea-Dweller as link the brand's top-spec dive watch.
      
    Another coach! Something tells me we're going to see more and more of them here. This time, Argentina's Men's Volleyball Coach link is wearing a TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph on the link sidelines against Team Brazil. It's difficult link to tell exactly what reference Formula 1 he's rocking, but that bulbous black tachymeter bezel is unmistakable. –LB
      
    The same could likely be said of ornate beadwork in watchmaking, effectively rendering this link watch a link high-jewelry piece. The beadwork in this Oursin design feels link refreshingly modern and reminds me of Munich-based jeweler Hemmerle's tassel earrings or Daniel Roseberry's surrealist beaded gowns for Schiaparelli. I'm excited to see what comes next!
      

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